I received some questions about the Z-Ring mod for the Fanatec Podium DD1 / DD2 (see my article on my dev blog for more info) and unfortunately I can’t answer to each person the same things so I open this FAQ and I will try to answer them all here, feel free to fill out the form HERE if you have any other question.
Read below the ENGLISH FAQ
Z-RING English F.A.Q.
What’s the Z-Ring exactly?
it’s a ring I created (the ring must be made with precision) which fits perfectly the current “quick-release” system of the Fanatec Podium DD1 / DD2 to overcome a problem of flex of the rim when the small rim locking screw isn’t used.
which is the main characteristic of a system “Quick-Release” to change quickly rim.
Once the Z-Ring in place the steering wheel is stable as in a race car and the FFB is better less soft more sturdy.
it has another advantage, once installed and when changing the rim on the Podium base you have nothing to do other than remove the current rim and put the new rim, that’s it!
It is therefore more stable but also faster when changing rim.
How to get the Z-Ring?
The Z-RING is made with PETG plastic with a good quality 3D printer (or in metal/aluminum with a CNC machine). The STL 3D file is provided and is 100% FREE. (it takes into account the natural retraction of the PETG to obtain the required dimensions).
Is the Z-Ring allowed to be sale or used in business context?
No, the Z-Ring is under Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) and requires my written consent to be marketed or used in business context, it aims to be easily available and shared from 3D printer owners to others sim racers and its price in PETG do not exceed 1 € to manufacture.
Do you have a list of authorized dealers?
“Authorized” dealers got my written consent to build and sale at low cost the Z-Ring. I ABSOLUTELY NOT taking any penny from the sales. Dealers committed to selling around 12€ / $15 the Z-Ring to help sim racers who do not have a good 3D printer.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note any alteration of the original design doesn’t meet the stability and efficiency criteria, the result will be unreliable. The fair price must be around $2 USD + shipping ($12 to $15 USD). All other dealers on ETSY.COM or elsewhere are NOT AUTHORIZED, I strongly suggest to take your z-ring at SimMakerZ (EU) and JCEED3D (US).
I only have one Fanatec wheel, is the Z-Ring useful in this case?
NO, just follow the instructions to properly tighten the QR with your rim and screw in the small rim locking screw to permanently fix the rim on your Podium base.
Does my podium remain under warranty after installing the Z-Ring?
YES, the installation of the Z-Ring is 100% safe, nothing is changed on your Podium base and you can easily revert back to the default QR system without worry.
I do not have a 3D printer, do you have suppliers where I can get it?
See the FAQ releated to authorized dealers above. We advise you to discuss it on your favorite sim racing forum.
This mode is not marketable without my consent, but aim to be shared and improved, feel free to talk about it in your social networks and your forums to find someone who can manufacture it.
if you’re willing to help the community, have a good quality 3D printer to manufacture the PETG Z-Ring at minimal cost (+ shipping fees) for sim racers, contact me by filling out the form HERE, I will be happy to add your link to this FAQ.
Also, thanks to add a link to my original project by adding the following mention in your web page:
Z-Ring (2019-2021) On an original idea by Zappadoc
More info available on Zappadoc website:
FAQ : https://www.zappadoc.com/f-a-q-z-ring-us-uk-fr/
Can we get the dimensions of the Z-Ring?
The theoretical dimensions below may vary and are indicative and for information purpose only. A Fanatec Podium DD1 or DD2 is required to adjust your 3D printed Z-Ring due to the natural shrinkage of the plastic during printing which may vary depending on the printer and filament brand used.
This is a precision object:
– the inner hole must be perfectly adjusted to the diameter of the shaft of the QR Podium
– the male outside part that enters the female QR of the rim must be perfectly adjusted
– the beveled bottom must perfectly touch the edge of the QR female rim in other words the 3D print length is very important.
the dimensions with * are the most important to check
What is the difference between version 14 and 15 of the Z-Ring?
The difference between versions 14 and 15 of the Z-Ring is a short heel and a recess bottom to make room for a lock nut (see installation for more information). This allows a complete stability of the QR even in the event of repeated big vibrations using your Fanatec Podium DD1 or DD2. Lock nut 3D STL file is included.
What is this mod for because I do not have a “mechanical play” in the rim once installed correctly?
The QR Mod Z-Ring serves 2 things:
– STABILIZE the rim avoiding lateral oscillations due to the flexibility of the rubber
– and also to quickly change the rim without using the rim locking screw.
If you do not have a “play”, it is because you distinguish the “mechanical play” from the “flexibility” of the movement of the rim.
The podium, if properly installed, has no “mechanical play”, but a flexibility not suitable for a racing wheel which must be very sturdy once installed for a correct feeling of the direct drive.
This flexibility increases when your rim is offset from the bending (flex) point (by using a hub + a custom rim for example). If you’re not sensitive to this lateral flexibility, good for you, but it probably means you never drive a racing car on track with a racing QR.
The standard version of Z-Ring (depth) is too short, about 1mm is missing?
Indeed it seems that the Podium bases or the QR of rim are different enough that the depth varies by more than a millimeter (1 mm). The reason is still unknown either the manufacturing is inconsistent and causes this difference, or there are two distinct versions.
In this case, there is a second 3D STL file with a greater depth of about 1.01mm.
The file “z-ring_v14b_1mm_deeper.stl” or “z-ring_v15_1mm_deeper_short_heel.stl”, start from this one to adjust it to your hardware if necessary.
I suggest to print the deeper version first which seems to be the version in use by most.
Contact me if you have any information about this difference of 1 mm. Thank you
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